UNIT 3

WALL COVERINGS

 

Wall covering is defined as the finish given to the wall to enhance the interior or exterior look of the structure. It brings colour, pattern, texture, light, shade and also help in providing clean and hygienic surface.

It is possible to opt more than one type of wall coverings into a room and colours, designs or materials can be used for focal points to add interest. For best results and impact, following factors needs to consider, while selecting wallcovering:

·       Contribution to décor: as per theme or standards

·       Wall condition: If the wall surface is uneven, avoid thin wall coverings with a glossy finish or regularly striped pattern – these will emphasize lumps and bumps. Textured papers are best for disguising uneven walls.

·       Room shape: If the room has irregular shape, with alcoves, recessed windows, and obstacles such as radiators to paper around, opt for a wall covering with a small-scale, all-over design and a small pattern repeat rather than one with large, obvious motifs.

·       Durability: If the wall covering will need to withstand a lot of wear and tear, choose one with a washable or scrub able finish. Vinyl’s are the toughest papers. If the wall covering is exposed to a lot of bright sunlight, choose a light-fast paper which won’t fade.

·       Ease of use: As per the usage of the area and movement in the area, it is required to select accordingly. As hard surfaces will be best for knocks and abrasion, non-porous surface has more resistance than porous ones.   

·       Cost: Cost of its application as well as its restoration, redecoration should be considered while choosing the surface for an area, as non-coated printed papers are generally the easiest one to remove and restore.

·       Ease of cleaning

 

TYPES OF WALL COVERINGS

1.       Paints: Paint is used extensively as a decorative wall finish, but it is also used to preserve and protect structural surfaces, especially those of wood and metal; it can be used for identification of pipes, for the emphasis of hazards and danger points, and for hygiene, as paint facilitates the cleaning of surfaces.

As per the requirement and usage of the area, paint offers a wide choice of selection. Gloss paint is normally used as a protective coating for window frames and sills, doors and skirting boards, paint with special properties, as insecticidal, fire retardant etc, may be used in guestrooms, and other certain places.

       Types of paint

·       Emulsion paints are water thinned but are based on dispersions of synthetic resins which dry to tough, washable and wear-resistant films. They are quick drying and low in odour, and so are very suitable for the redecoration of rooms.

·       Alkyd paints are based on synthetic (alkyd) resins combined with a vegetable oil, such as linseed oil. Alkyd paints are generally easier to apply and have better durability and wearing properties than the older types. They have good durability and excellent light fastness in a wide range of colours.

·       Multi-colour paints are usually dispersions of celluloid colours in water. Each colour is present in separate ‘blobs’ or ‘spots’, the resulting effect being dependent on the number of different colours. Corridors, entrance halls, hospital wards, cloakrooms and lavatories are ideal places in which to use this type of finish.

·       Texture or plastic paints are usually plaster-based and are intended to give a textured or relief effect on the surface.

·       Microporous paints have a rubberized base which gives little gloss but offers elasticity, allowing movement when the surface expands or contracts.

Care and cleaning of painted surfaces

1. Remove light dust with a wall broom or suction cleaner working from the bottom up.

2. Damp wipe/wash, when necessary, with warm water and suitable detergent (as per the surface) to remove heavily ingrained or tenacious dust and dirt.

3. When washing, start from the bottom and work upwards, using a sponge or distemper brush. Rinse from the top downwards, using frequent changes of water.

4. Low sheen finishes, especially emulsion paints, should be cleaned by very lightly scrubbing with a damp brush and a little scouring powder; the dirt should be removed without damage or ‘polishing’.

5. Never apply wax polishes or oil to gloss painted surfaces to ‘revive’ them.

6. Do not use harsh abrasives, strong solvents or strong soda solutions to clean paintwork, or the film may be damaged or softened.

 

2.       Wallpaper: Wall papers have a warmer appearance than paint. Some of the important characteristics, which have to be taken care while selecting wall papers are:

·       Never apply on new walls,

·       Never be preferred on false walls

·       Not abrasive resistant, so choose according to area,

·       Can be stuck back (if required), so can be used in vulnerable area

·       Have some sound insulation options also,

      

       Types of wallpapers:

·       Ordinary surface printed papers

·       Sponge able papers, specially treated during manufacture to withstand water.

·       Anaglypta, which has an embossed or raised pattern. Normally it is in white color.

·       Wood chip papers, which have interlayered chips of wood, are usually cream in colour and are normally painted over.

·       Oatmeal papers, where texture is produced by the interlayering of wood dust, chopped straw or similar material during manufacture.

·       Flocked papers, which are treated with adhesive to which silk, wool, cotton or synthetic fibres stick to give a raised pile.

·       Wood grain papers, photographic reproduction of various wood grains, waxed during manufacture.

·       Metallic papers, printed with gold and other metallic powders.

·       Paper-backed Hessians, which give a rough textured effect.

·       Paper-backed felts.

·       Lincrusta, a paper-back textured composition, frequently simulating wood panelling.

Cleaning of wall papers

1. Remove surface dust with a wall broom or suction cleaner.

2. Remove marks by rubbing with a soft India rubber or a piece of soft bread.

     If paper is spongeable, wipe with a damp cloth or sponge.

3. Attempt to remove grease with a proprietary grease absorber.

 

 3.       Plastic wall covering: They are non-porous therefore have the tendency for growth of moulds so the adhesive should contain fungicides, or a fungicidal wash should be used on the wall prior to hanging the plastic wall covering. The main types of plastic wall coverings are:

·       Paper-backed vinyl, where the vinyl may have the appearance of almost any material, e.g. silk, tweed, Hessian, cork, grass paper, wood, stone or brick.

·       Fabric-backed vinyl, similar in appearance to the above and even more durable.

·       Vinyl flock papers

·       Plastic wall tiles, imitating ceramic tiles,

·       Laminated plastic, as a veneer or surface boards,

·       Expanded polystyrene, used on walls and ceilings to give heat and sound insulation, and to help eliminate insulation.

Cleaning of plastic wall coverings

1. Remove surface dust with wall broom or suction cleaner.

2. Damp wipe or wash, when necessary, with warm water and synthetic detergent. A soft brush may be used on these surfaces.

 

4.       Fabric wall covering: It is possible to cover a wall with any fabric and its durability will depend on the fibre and weave used in its manufacture. Fabrics may:

·       be hung loosely or in folds which may cover ugly features,

·       be attached to a frame secured to the wall,

·       be paper backed or specially prepared so that they can actually be stuck to the wall,

·       bring warmth and better acoustic properties to the area,

·       have sound deadening properties which help against noise in adjoining rooms.

Cleaning of fabric wall coverings

1. Remove surface dust with a brush or suction cleaner.

2. For the more beautiful hangings, dismantle when necessary and send to firm of dry cleaners who specialize in this type of work.

3. Where Hessian is stuck to the wall, scrub very lightly where necessary using warm water and synthetic detergent.

 

5.       Wood panel: Woods used for panelling are usually hard, well-seasoned and of a decorative appearance, and they may cover the wall completely or form a dado. Wood panelling may be solid or veneered; it lasts for years with little maintenance, but initial cost is very high. Wood panelling may be found in such places as entrance halls and staircases, assembly halls, boardrooms and restaurants.

Cleaning of wood panel

1. Remove surface dust with a wall broom, duster or suction cleaner and polish if necessary.

2. Where the panelling has become dirty or greasy wipe over with white spirit, or vinegar and water, and re-polish.

3. Dark oaks may be wiped over with beer.

6.       Glass wall coverings: Glass can be used in the form of decorative tiles, sometimes in the form of mosaics, and tiles should not be confused with glass bricks which allow the passage of light and form the wall itself. Coloured opaque glass sheet or tiles may be used as wall covering in hotel bathrooms. Glass as a wall covering is frequently used in the form of mirror tiles which reflect light and can alter the apparent size of a room or corridor. A glass-less mirror is available now which has the advantage of not misting up or shattering and is about 1/5^th of the weight of a conventional mirror. It consists of a polyester film, vacuum coated with aluminium and mounted on a flat frame.

Cleaning of glass wall coverings

1. Dust or wipe with a damp chamois leather or scrim. Proprietary cleansers or methylated spirit may be used.

2. Care should be taken when cleaning mirrors that the backs do not become damp.

 7.       Metal wall covering: Metals may be used for decorative and their hygienic qualities. Metals such as copper and anodized aluminium are decorative and may be used for effect in such areas as bars; and other metals, usually stainless steel in the form of tiles, may be used in kitchens where they present a durable, easily cleaned hygienic surface in areas where splashing is likely.

Metal skirting boards provide coved edges between wall and floor surfaces. Metal foil can be elegant if used sparingly as a wall covering; it is available in a variety of colours.

Cleaning of metal wall coverings

1. Dust or wipe with a damp cloth.

2. Polish is not necessary on metal surfaces as they either do not tarnish or will have been treated against it.

 8.       Leather/ faux leather wall covering

Leather wall coverings are extremely expensive and very decorative. They may be padded and studded with brass studs and they do not usually cover a complete wall surface. They may be found in luxury establishments in parts of the restaurant or bars.

Cleaning of leather wall coverings

1.       Remove surface dust by dusting or careful suction cleaning.

2.       Apply polish sparingly and rub up well.

 9.       Other material: various flooring material can also be used as wall coverings. They provide different colours, pattern and texture. Though expensive, they are hardwearing and abrasion resistant. The various types are linoleum, cork (tiles or sheets), carpets, marble, terrazzo, ceramic tiles, granite, brick and stones (exterior walls). 

 CEILING: an overhead interior surface that covers the upper limits of a room. It is not generally considered a structural element, but a finished surface concealing the underside of the roof structure or the floor of a storey above. The factor to be considered in the selection of ceiling system

·       Type of floor structure

·       Appearance/ room decor

·       Durability

·       The location of mechanical services/equipment

·       Fire resistance

·       Function of the building

·       Need for acoustic elements

Type of Ceiling system

·       Exposed ceiling/ open ceiling

·       Suspended ceiling/ false ceiling

·       Fixed ceiling

·       Ordinary ceilings

Ceiling Finishes

·       Ceiling tiles

·       Textured paints (smooth texture/ sand texture/ popcorn effects)

·       Ceiling paper

·       Planks

·       Panels

·       Gypsum boards

Maintenance of ceilings

·       Remove dust or loose dirt (with brush/ vacuum). CLEAN IN ONE DIRECTION

·       Remove pencil marks, smudges, and stubborn dirt with an ordinary art gum eraser. DO SPOT CLEANING

·       Most mineral fiber and fiberglass ceilings may be cleaned with a damp cloth or sponge and mild soap. Use as little water as possible and wipe the soapy film off with a clean, damp cloth or sponge. 

·       Some ceilings can withstand scrubbing, moisture and germicidal cleaners (as per the specification)

·       Repaint (if required)

 WINDOWS

It has been observed that windows are provided for twin namely lighting and ventilation in the room. Light can pass through glass pane in the windows or door so the purpose of lighting can be accomplished even when window is opened.

Structure of window:

·       Sill: Sometimes referred to as the “stool” of the window, the sill is the main horizontal part that forms the bottom of the window frame.

·       Apron: Installed beneath the stool of the window, the apron is a decorative piece of trim that helps provide the interior of the window with a modern look and design.

·       Hinges: The location of the hinges varies based on the type of window. For a casement window, the hinges are on the jambs of the side that does not open. On an awning window, the hinges are on the head of the frame, since the window opens from the bottom. Conversely, for hopper windows, the hinges are on the sill, since that window opens from the top.

·       Head: The main horizontal part that forms the top of the window frame.

·       Glass Jambs: The main vertical parts that form the sides of the window frame.

·       Frame: The framework that surrounds and supports the entire window system, which is comprised of the head, jamb, and sill.

·       Glass: The framed sheet of glass within a window frame.

·       Sash: The movable part of a window that holds the glass.

·       Rails: There are three rails on a double-hung window. The upper and lower rails, which together comprise the horizontal piece of a window sash. The check rail, in the middle of the window, is where the bottom part of the upper sash meets the upper part of the lower sash.

·       Balance: Normally spring-loaded, the mechanical device used in single- and double-hung windows to counterbalance the weight of the sash during opening and closing.

·       Lift: The handle for raising the lower sash

·       Sash Lock: The locking mechanism that engages with the sash lock strike to reduce rattling.

·       Weep Hole: Individual openings in the window sill that enable water or condensation to escape.

·       Mullion: The major structural piece, either vertical or horizontal, that connects two or more windows together.

·       Grilles: A piece designed for decorative purposes, achieving the appearance of multiple glass panes by visually dividing the window panels.

 

The following are the various types of windows which are used in hotel rooms:

1.       Casement window: - It is a window whose shutter opens like a door. The construction of this window has a frame and a shutter composed of horizontal or vertical sash bars.

2.       Double Hung windows: - Consists of a pair of shutters which can slide or more vertically within the grooves provided in the frame.

3.       Fixed window: - It is also known as picture window and is a standard window that is non-operational. As such, these windows do not have a handle, hinges, or any operable hardware. Fixed windows permit light to enter while remaining closed to the exterior environment (unlike an operable window, which can open and close).

4.       Louvered/ jalousie window: - It consists of parallel glass, acrylic, or wooden louvers set in a frame. The big difference between these two is that louvers are fixed slats whereas jalousie windows have blades that are adjustable in parallel with each other. This window maintains a sufficient privacy without affecting the ventilation effect of the window when it is close.

5.       Pivoted window: - This window has an ordinary shutter which may be fully panelled or fully glazed but, in this window, shutters remain pivoted and not side hanged.

6.       Awning/ hopper window: - In awnings, the sash moves outward away from the house. In hopper windows, the sash moves inward.

7.       Sliding window: - Sliding windows comprises of two or more than two horizontal sashes that are fitted with rollers at the base for smooth sideward track movement. Easy to operate, these windows offer panoramic views and a great amount of ventilation

8.       Corner window: - A corner window is a single unit comprised of two or more sashes that meet at a corner and span both sides of a building. A corner window requires a special framing method in order to create a rough opening with no corner support. It is provided to admit the light and ventilation from either the side or direction. It beautifies the appearance of the building.

9.       Dormer window: - It is provided of the sloping roof of the building. The main function of providing dormer window is to admit light and air to the room built with the slop of the roof.

10.   Bay window: - The window project outside the external wall of the room. They may be of square or any other shapes. They improve the beauty of the building.

11.   Lanterns: - The windows are fitted with a flat roof when a particular room is blocked from all the sides and windows provide in the wall do not provide sufficient light inside the room. These types of windows are provided in the roof to admit more of light. They are mainly provided for the purpose of light but ventilation can also be achieved from them if they are provided with shutter. 

12.   Sky light window: - Sky light windows are provided on the sloping surface of a pitched roof. Generally, sky lights are fitted on curved frame.

A window treatment is a cover or modification of the window, often with the aim to enhance the aesthetics of the window and the room. Treatments for covering the window include:

 

A} Stiff window treatments/ HARD TREATMENTS

1.       BLINDS A window blind is a type of window covering which is made with slats of fabric, wood, plastic or metal that adjust by rotating from an open position to a closed position by allowing slats to overlap.

·       ROLLER BLINDS These let in plenty of light when drawn up, yet give complete privacy when unrolled and let down. Roller blinds are made of thick fabrics used in conjunction with rollers.

·       ROMAN BLINDS These are made of fabrics attached to cords. When the cords are pulled, the blinds rise up in accordion pleats to form pelmet. They are heavier and warmer than roller blinds.

·       VENETIAN BLINDS They are popular for their almost complete control of air, light and view. They are usually low in price and some custom- designed blinds come in different colours and patterns.

·       VERTICAL LOUVRE BLINDS These are most effective on large floor-to- ceiling window. They work on the same principal as the venetian blinds, except that they close across the window rather than down. The slats are wider than the venetian type but less opaque.

·       AUSTRIAN BLINDS These are ruched fabrics (trimmed with gathers). They may be used partially raised, and when fully raised, they form a decorative pelmet. They are used in banquet halls and large lobbies for a sumptuous effect.

           Care and cleaning of blinds

• Attend to badly hanging blinds.
• Dust or wipe frequently.
• Wash with warm water and synthetic detergents as often as required.

 

2.       SHADES A window blind does not have slats but comprises a single piece of material that can be rolled to control the degree of the various functions of the window. These blinds are machine-operated as well as hand operated.

·       BAMBOO AND WOVEN WOOD SHADES Slatted shades have the advantage in that they let through some light and air, and allow outwards-only visibility in the day time. They block the inward view at the same time, depending on the tightness of the weave or the size of the slats.

·       FABRIC ROLLER SHADES These are inexpensive and can be flexibly adjusted to cover as much of windows as required at a particular time. They can be translucent, letting in some light or completely opaque. These shades are available in many colours, textures, and patterns, although neutral white or off-white, fairly smooth fabrics are the standard. Decals or stencilled patterns on roller shades give interesting look on to the windows when the light filters through the designs.

 

3.       SHUTTER A window shutter is a solid and stable window covering usually consisting of a frame of vertical stiles and horizontal rails (top, centre and bottom). Set within this frame can be louvers (both operable or fixed, horizontal or vertical), solid panels, fabric, glass and most any other item that can be mounted within a frame

4.       SCREENS A window screen, insect screen or bug screen is a metal wire, fibreglass, or other synthetic fibre mesh, stretched in a frame of wood or metal, designed to cover the opening of an open window. Its primary purpose is to keep insects, leaves, debris, birds, and other animals from entering a building, while permitting fresh air-flow

B} SOFT WINDOW TREATMENT

1.       CURTAIN A curtain is a piece of cloth intended to block or obscure lights, or drafts, or water in the case of a shower curtain. It often contributes more to the atmosphere of the room than any other item of furnishing. Plain, heavy curtains falling down to the floor can be used to create a formal setting. Short curtains made of light; brightly patterned fabrics are used to create an informal, relaxed atmosphere. Apart from creating the desired atmosphere, curtains give flexible control over privacy, heat, light, and to some extent noise. Curtains fulfil several important functions:

• They give flexible control over privacy, heat and light.

• They soak up the noise in proportions to the area they cover, the thickness of the fabric, and the depths of the fold.

• Curtain can add colour and pattern to the decor.

• They cover bareness and furnish a room even without furniture

• They can change the apparent size of the room or conceal architectural flaws

 

2.       NET CURTAINS: Net, sheer or glass curtains are made of translucent fabrics, frequently polyester net, which soften and diffuse the light as it passes through them. With these lightweight fabrics the curtains should be two or three times the width of the window, and there should be sufficient weight at the bottom of the curtains to enable them to hang properly.

Net curtains become soiled very easily and require frequent changing, so it is essential that there are at least two sets per window. Polyester net is to be recommended most, as it withstands sunlight and retains its appearance after frequent washings. Other fabrics for sheer curtains include a net curtaining with a metallic backing, so that 45-65% of the sun’s radiation may be reflected. Aluminium or steel wire mesh in a variety of colours will drape and can be used as curtains or partition material, as can metal chain.

·       SASH CURTAINS These are types of glass curtain hung on the window sash. They can be stretched taut between rods along with the top and bottom of the window sashes or hung in loose folds.

·       DRAW CURTAINS These are usually made of translucent or opaque fabrics and are mounted on traverse rods. In earlier days, they were used between glass curtains and draperies, but these days they are more often used alone.

 

3.       DPARERY A drapery refers to a loosely hung soft furnishing. These are made of heavier fabrics and may be lined. The heading is usually pleated.

·       PANEL DRAPES These types of drapes cover only the sides of a window area.

·       STRAIGHT-HUNG DRAPES These can be used with valance or cornice, but the window will seem taller without a decorative heading.

 

4.       TIE-BACKS Either one panel can be tied back to one side or both the panels can be tied back to the two sides. They are often tied back to the window frame. A pair of curtains looped back makes a window seem much narrower than a single curtain tied back. Such curtains should preferably be tied back just below or above the mid-section of the window. Usually the higher the tie-back, the taller the window appears.

·       CRISS-CROSS CURTAINS/ PRISCILLAS These curtains are a variation of the tie-back type. Both the curtain panels overlap each other at the top along the entire width of the window and then criss-cross each other when they are tied back. Criss-cross curtains generally make a window seem wider. They also assure an impression of fullness.

Care and cleaning of curtains

·       Keep rod and track free from dust by the use of a wall broom or a vacuum cleaner attachment.

·       Shake often. Use vacuum cleaner attachment or brush occasionally to remove dust from the curtains.

·       Deal appropriately with repairs to linings, frayed edges and any difficulties with pulling etc.

·       Reverse the position of the curtains so that no part is continually exposed to sun.

·       Have lined curtains dry cleaned; if unlined and of a suitable material, have then laundered.

 

PELMET AND CORNICES: Pelmets are rigid, and may be of shaped pieces of wood or hardboard, which can be painted to match the décor of the room, or they may be of padded plastic or stiffened fabric to match or contrast with the curtains. Cornices are box-like shapes used at the top horizontal portion of the drapery treatment to hide the poles and other hardware. They are generally 4 to 7 inches deep. The width of a cornice should be little less than one- eighth of the overall length of the floor length drapery. They should be made of wood, plastic, or mirrored glass. Wooden cornices are the most frequently used and a plain wooden board with an interesting moulding at the top and bottom is always good taste. Wooden cornices may be finished in their natural colour, painted in some other colour, or covered with cloth, cork or leather. Sometimes the coverings are edged in brass nails.

SWAGS: They are decorative, drapery treatments meant to hide the curtain headings and usually taper to a cascade (also called a tail). These loop and falls luxuriously over a curtain pole, ending in elaborate tails.

VALANCE: A window valance is a form of window treatment that covers the uppermost part of the window and can be hung alone or paired with window blinds or curtains. These are made up of fabrics that can be pleated, scalloped (having an edge or border marked with semicircles) or ruffled. They should never exceed one-sixth of the window’s height and should be about 8-12 inches in depth.

 

Fabric Selection for Window Treatment

·       Durability which will be judged by material, soil, heat, abrasion, fire, sunlight, & water resistant, yarn quality & yarn thickness(denier), construction.

·       Pest and moth resistant, crease-resistance

·       Fast-colors, should not run or bleed

·       Drapability

·       Fabric stabilizers

·       Price

·       Fabric backing e.g. milium

·       Design and pattern

The pattern or the lack of it on fabric, will depend on the amount of pattern already in the room. The colour of draperies may be white, off-white, beige or a colour that blends with the wall colour. Duplicating exact wall colour may be monotonous and may give a unified and spacious look to the room. The texture must agree with the mode and style of the room and will largely depend on the type of fabric and weaving method.

1.       Large patterns are preferred in small rooms.

2.       Amount of artificial light entering the room.

3.       Color, theme and décor of the room.

Measure for Draperies

·       Length: Length should be calculated keeping in mind that the pelmet rod is fixed four inches above the window. One height of a curtain rod from the floor + 3” for hemming + 6’ for turning at the top + 1-2% for shrinkage.

·       Width: Minimum 11⁄2-2 times the length of the pelmet + 6’ for hemming on both sides.

·       Measure for Lining of Curtain: Length should be 6-8” less than the length of the curtain.

 DOOR

Definition: It is a movable structure used for opening and closing an entrance or for giving access to something.

Doors are the major important element for a building, they do not only provide aesthetically pleasing but also have features like durability, strength, water, and heat resistance. Nowadays, with privacy and security requirement, doors have become an important aesthetic appearance structure and an integral part of interiors.

 

Types of doors

Various types of doors are in use which may be classified on the basis of arrangement of shutters, method of constructions, principles of working operations and materials used. Commonly used doors are briefly explained below:

1.       Battened and Ledged Doors: These kinds of doors are composed of vertical boards called battens which are nailed or screwed to horizontal members called ledgers. Battens are 100 mm to 150 mm wide and 20 mm thick wooden boards. Their length is that of door opening. The battens are connected by horizontal planks, known as ledges of size 100 to 200 mm wide and 30 mm thick. Usually, three ledges are used one at top, one at bottom and the third one at mid-height. This is the simplest form of door and the cheapest also. Battens are secured by tongued and grooved joint.

2.       Battened, Ledged and Braced Doors: If doors are wide apart from using battens and ledges diagonal members, known as braces, are provided to strengthen the door. Figure 8.22 shows a typical battened, ledged and braced door.

3.       Framed and Panelled Doors: This type of door consists of vertical members, called styles and horizontal members called rails. The styles and rails are suitably grooved to receive panels. The panels may be of wood, A.C. sheet, glasses etc. The panels may be flat or of raised type to get good appearance. These are very commonly used doors. They may be of single shutter or of double shutter. If glass panels are used, they may be called as glazed doors.

4.       Flush Doors: The shutters of these doors are made of plywood or block boards. They are of uniform thickness. These shutters are available with different attractive veneer finishes. The time consumed in making such doors at site is quite less. These doors are suitable for interior portion of a building. Nowadays flush doors are commonly used in residential and office buildings.

5.       Louvered Doors: Whenever privacy as well as ventilation is required such doors can be used. Louvers are the glass, wooden or A.C. sheet strips fixed in the frame of shutter such that they prevent vision but permit free passage of air. The doors may be fully or partially louvered. Such doors are commonly used for public area bathrooms.

         6.       Revolving Door: It consist of a centrally placed pivot to which four radiating shutters are attached. The central pivot is supported on ball bearing at the bottom and has a bush bearing at the top. The shutters may be partly or fully made-up of glass. A circular space of entrance is provided within which shutters rotate. As shutters rotate, they give entrance on one side and exit on other side. These doors are preferred in public buildings like stores, banks, hotels, theatres where continuous use of doors is necessary. They are very much required in entrance to air-conditioned public buildings. Figure 8.26 shows a typical revolving door.

7.       Swing Door: Swing door has its shutter attached to the frame by means of double action springs. Hence shutter can move both inward and outward. They may be single shuttered or double shuttered. Such doors are preferred in offices and banks. Since these doors can open on both sides it is desirable to provide glass panels or peep holes to enable user to see the persons from other side.

8.       Sliding Door: In this type of doors, shutter slides on the sides. For this purpose, runners and guide rails are provided. Sliding shutters may be one, two or even three. Such doors are used in banks, offices etc.

9.       Hinged Door: These types of doors are generally made of either a solid wooden panel door or a hollow-cored door affixed to a door jamb with two or more hinges. These are too common and are useful in almost any application in which a door is required. These doors are generally located as front entry and wardrobe doors.

10.   Dutch Door: These types of doors also known as double-hung or half door sometimes and is a door that’s split in half horizontally, allowing the top half to open while the bottom half stays shut. A secure tight bolt holds the two halves together and it operates as a normal door.

11.   French Door: A French door is generally made up of one piece and has a light construction with glass panes extending for most of its length. They are also known as French windows.

12.   Glass Door: Glass is most commonly used for windows and doors, primarily for panelling. It depends on the owner whether like to use glass, doors can be made out of glass for particular areas. Generally, glass doors’ most suitable location is on the backside as it offers an unblocked view of the yard or garden. Glassdoor is more expensive compared to others and needs more effort to upkeep. These doors have more weight than other doors besides being pricey.

13.   Fibre Glass Door: Generally, glass fibre is manufactured by bonding fibre with resin that can be utilized to produce a variety of products consisting of bathtubs, doors and windows, and so on. Fiberglass is proven to be one of the most solidified products with fairly low upkeep expenses as compared with wood and steel. Fiberglass doors are well known as steady as they do not warp, bow or twist. Windows and doors made up of fiberglass can be offered with wood panels on the surface to surpass the visual appeals. Doors manufactured out of fiberglass can be utilized for both outside and interior areas.

 There are many types of finish available for wooden surface. They can be divided into two main categories:

                    1. Penetrating finishes                                                  2. Surface finishes.

 1.       Penetrating finishes are absorbed by the wood or easier to apply. It becomes the part of wood rather than remains on top and gives more natural look. It can be applied through wiping it on wood, or with brush also. These finishes penetrate the wood and leave little bit darkening effect, which enhances the natural colour and grains of wood. Penetrate finish easily penetrates into wood after 5-8 minutes, after that excess can be removed by wiping it through rags or steel wool. Since the penetrating finish becomes part of wood rather than a layer on it, which made wood more strong, hard and more resistant to damage. Examples are as follows:

 

A) Linseed Oil: It is also known as flaxseed oil. It is a slow drying oil with preservative properties and resistant to water. It is one of the oldest penetrating finishes for wood and mostly used for protection of exterior doors or furniture.  However, it tends to become sticky in humid weather. Linseed oil can take days in most cases and remain rather soft for a very long time typically used on outside. Applying linseed oil is easy.

B) Danish Oil: It is mostly used on interior doors and trim. It can be used as primer or sealer on wood before applying varnish or paint. Danish oil is a combination of Tung oil and varnish with addition of pigment for required colour. The application process of Danish oil is same as linseed oil or Tung oil.

Danish oil is used as finish or base coat for all types of wood whether; it is used as interior or exterior door, outdoor or indoor furniture, windows, etc.

C) Tung Oil:  Tung oil is a drying oil, and most durable among all other oils available for finish. It is favourite finish among the woodworkers because it is easy to apply and leaves an attractive or natural appearance. Tung oil is used for interior woods, exterior woods or surfaces used for preparation of food like granite or marble in kitchen. From a long time, Tung oil is used as wood finish, as well as an excellent wood sealer. It is very simple to apply and maintain Tung oil finish.

 

2. Surface Finishes: It is more durable finish than penetrating finish, but do not offer natural look to wood like penetrating finishes. Surface finishes provide protection that is more durable. It protects wood from water, dirt, and grime or decorates the surface and leaves easy to clean sheen to surface. They provide protection from day-to-day wear or tear of wood and it is a better choice for final finish. There are so many products for clear protective wood sealers in the market and each has different level of protection. The film forming wood top coats have limited penetrating capabilities and remain on top of the wood. Surface finish can be the toughest clear top coats but not necessarily, it is best for every project. Examples are:

A) Paint: Paint is a mixer of pigments, binders, thinners and additives. It enhances the beauty of wood or protects it from moisture, heat, sunrays, etc. Paint helps in protecting wood from day-to-day wear and tear and easy to clean. There are two types of paints you can used for wooden doors i.e.; acrylic paints or oil-based paints. Two or more coats of acrylic paints give nice clear finish to wooden doors. Oil based paints are also good for wooden surfaces, but they have slow drying process. It can be easily used with brush, foam brush or foam roller. Paint is used as topcoat for both exterior and interior wood surfaces.

B) Varnish: Varnish is the most traditionally used finishing material for wood surfaces. It is used as protection and decoration of interior wood surfaces. Varnish is mixer of resins, drying oils, driers and thinners in suitable proportions. Resin is gum like substance, which is soluble in water. Varnish is applied on the surface after preparing the wooden surface with the help of brush and other spirit.

C) Spirit or French Polish: It is a process of finishing a wood surface with spirit or other solutions. Finishing like French polish is mostly found on antique furniture. Spirit polish is a solution of shellac and other spirit resins dissolved in commercial alcohol. It dries quicker and leaves harder, clear, glossy, mirror like wood surface than oil varnish.  However, wood surfaces finished with French polish may crack or scales off easily. It does not with stand weathering. It is suitable for internal doors and windows, furniture etc. French polishing is lengthy or repetitive process and needs patience or hard work for perfect clear and glossy surface. It is least expensive but the surface polished with French polish may scratch and stained easily.

D) Melamine Based Finishes: Melamine based finishes are premium quality natural finish coating, available in clear glossy, semi-glossy or matt finishes. They save as a decorative and protective transparent finish to natural wood surface with excellent resistance to scratches and strains from tea, coffee etc. It can be applied from conventional spray or brush on wooden surface. Melamine finishes gets dries very fast and enhances the beauty of wood grains or surface texture of wood. Melamine finishes are available in transparent or opaque finishes.

 

E) Polyurethane Finish: It is durable and protective finish for wood for wood surfaces. It is available in water based or oil-based finishes. It gives clear wood finish, which is available in both matt and glossy finish. It gives wood surface a rich and natural finish that enhances the elegance of the wood grains pattern and texture of the surface. They are more economical than melamine finishes. Polyurethane based finishes are durable, scratch proof, strain resistant and easy to apply. These types of finishes are good for exterior wooden surface of door and window.

 

DOOR LOCKS in hotels

1.       Mechanical door locks: This type belongs to the simplest locking systems. These locks can have different lock cylinder mechanisms, e.g., with reversible or spanner keys. They are affordable, as there is a wide range of prices that can be suggested, and the installation is easy. However, they can be easily picked, and they are less convenient for elderly and disabled persons.

Advantages:     

·       Cheaper price;

·       Trouble-free installation;

·       A lot of options to match the style of your hotel; and unlocking;

·       The ease of use.

Disadvantages:

·       The key can be lost or copied;

·       Vulnerability to lock-picking;

·       No extra functions aside from locking;

·       No opportunity to add value to your hotel;

·       Lack of convenience for the elderly and disabled people.

Types of mechanical locks

·       Knob Locks: Knob locks are the most common type of door lock and the chief method of security for most doors. The lock cylinder is located in the knob instead of the door. Thus, knob locks should not be used on external doors, as they can be broken into with basic tools like a hammer or wrench.

·       Deadbolt Lock Types: Deadbolts offer the best protection against a burglary or break-in. Lock bolts are moved by turning a knob or key without the use of a spring. Deadbolts feature a unique locking mechanism that resists physical attacks, battering and boring. They cannot be opened with a knife or hand tool. Deadbolt locks come in three types: single, double and C.

Single cylinder deadbolts are the simplest ones and can be activated from one side via a key. A double cylinder deadbolt can be used with a key from both sides. A single, double and lockable thumb turn deadbolt features a thumb turn inside that can be locked with a key. This type of deadbolt provides the greatest flexibility and security.

·       Mortise Locks: They are powerful locks used on external doors. However, they are available in both light and heavy-duty models. They are comprised of an internal system which makes them more of locksets than just locks. These locksets can house either knobs or levers and are often comprised of a cylindrical body. They are threaded and utilize mortise components added within the door. A box lock is set within the mortise, which is a deep recess in the edge of the door. Mortise locksets stay secure by using a set screw and a cam which creates the locking mechanism. The cylinder component comes in various heights and lengths for different types of doors.

      

           2.       Mechatronic locking systems

This version combines mechanical and electronic components. The main parts of this system are the locking cylinders plus programmable keys, special devices for programming, the management software, etc.

This type combines the best parts of ordinary and digital locks, providing extra security for your building. It does not require complicated wiring installation, as the power source is located within the key. Each one has a battery, which lasts approximately for a year and can be easily replaced. If the locking system features Bluetooth connection, it is possible to receive up-to-date information concerning access to the building or room where the lock is installed.

 

Advantages:     

·       Higher flexibility compared to mechanical-only solutions;     

·       Easy entry permission settings adjustment; 

·       Rapid installation with a possibility of further retrofitting;     

·       A possibility to grant lock access for a defined period;           

·       A possibility to delete lost or stolen keys from the system;   

·       An event log keeping feature;           

·       A possibility to program the replacement keys if needed.     

Disadvantages:

·       Higher costs of installation